It might be a good idea to start with the basic skirt block. Below is the step by step approach. However, if you have concerns or questions, you can put in the comment section.
- Pattern paper
- Hip Curve
- Waist: This is the narrowest part of the body. It will usually be around the navel (belly button).
- Hip: The widest part of the body (above or below the hip bone, whichever is wider).
- Hip depth: This is from the waist (belly button level sideways) to hip (Hip Bone) at the side seam.
- Length: This is from waist to the desired skirt length (Knee, three-quarter, or heel).
Skirt Back (for a knee length skirt)
A-B: Rule a vertical line from point A to B using the waist to knee measurement (Note: Point A-B is the centre back).
A-C: Hip depth (Measure the hip depth along the vertical line A-B).
C-D: From point C, rule horizontally a quarter of hip measurement including ease. You could add a 2 inch ease or as you like it. For example, if your hip is 44 inches, a quarter is 11 inches + 2 inches (ease) = 13 inches
B-E: Rule out horizontally from B. B-E Equals C-D.
E-F: Equals A-B (parallel lines)
A-G: From point A, rule horizontally towards A-F, a quarter of waist measurement including ease of an inch, plus dart (4cm). For example, if your waist measurement is 32 inches. A quarter is 8 inches. Add ease of an inch (8+1= 9 inches). Add 4cm dart.
G-H: Rule half an inch up the line A-F from point G.
A-H: Lower A-B by 1cm and curve up at side seam to H using your Hip curve
H-D: Draw a straight line from H-D. Mark the centre of H-D and measure 1cm towards line F-D. Curve up H-D on the extended 1cm.
Point I: Mark dart 10/11/12 cm along line A-H, from point A.
From point I, draw a vertical line of approximately 12 or 13cm towards the hip bone to make point J.
Mark 2cm on either side of point I and zero to nothing at point J. (that is, rule from the 2cm on either sides to meet point J).
For the skirt front pattern, use the same drawing above, however, alter the drawing with the following steps:
Reduce the dart by approximately 2cm (that is, reduce point J upwards by 2cm).
Raise point A by 5mm and zero to nothing by the side seam
If you follow the above step by step correctly, you should achieve a drawing similar to the image attached.
Cutting on Fabric
For the Back:
Line A to B is Centre Back. So, fold your fabric into two and cut out two pieces of the back pattern drawn. While cutting, add sewing allowance of about 1 inch to side seam (H to E) and 1 inch zip allowance to centre back (A to B). Also add hem allowance of about 1 inch (by extending A-B and H-E by 1 inch)..
For the front:
Line A to B is your centre front. Fold your fabric into two and cut while ensuring the side A to B is on fold. You do not need sewing allowance here because you are cutting on fold.
Add an inch sewing allowance to H to E (side seam).
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